Charging/starting problem and hesitation issue

[alexandermf]

I've recently started experiencing horrible hesitation when I get into boost. See the boost gauge go up but butt dyno definitely doesnt feel it along with the feeling the car is holding back.

Also just heard hesitation can come from bad battery/charging issues which I've been experiencing for quite a while but on and off..

I have a brand new yellow top that tests good, used alt(looks brand new and good denso brand) that tests fine and I have new battery terminal connectors.

Only things in my car that would draw major enery are the sound system and interlock(in car breathalyzer). But these have always been in the car and never have problems with besides the times the car acts up.

Its been SUPER cold in co last couple months which is when I have the most trouble of course... I can drive my car alll day then park overnight, try to start it morning and sometimes will not crank at all, then get someone to jump me each time. Other times I can drive it all day, park, and start right back up next morning. I just thought that maybe these two problems might be connected and I've felt I've replaced everything necessary to prevent this.

Thoughts, suggestions, advice?

Usually my car is running fine and top notch minus running rich. I've noticed that with this hesitation issue, my car runs SUPER rich, especially once in boost. The afr gauge will shoot straight to 10.0 like the injectors are just wide open even in low boost levels when normally it'd be around 13-11 going towards 10 as I hit higher boost

[alexandermf]

About a month ago I was experiencing starting issues too but my yellow top which was only 3mos old tested bad, which is why I have the brand new one...again...

[alexandermf]

I will pull cel codes when it gets warmer, hopefully within next day or so, but I pulled them last week and only 3 active codes(vss, inhibitor switch, neutral switch) all from my 5sp swap. I could be in limp mode but it doesn't feel like it, and I've had the speed sensor out before(tranny end) and its never put me in limp mode or created hesitation

[Legacy777]

Regarding the hesitation, you may be maxing out your MAF sensor which is causing the injectors to go static. Since the colder air is much denserm, the amount of air going into the engine at 30 deg F is going to be more vs. let's say 70 deg F. Since the MAF sensor measures the mass of the air vs. the volume if you're on the verge of maxing your MAF sensor then the colder air could be putting you over the top.

I would try and read the voltage from your MAF sensor. Additionally, try backing down your boost a few PSI and see if that keeps you from going into those very rich conditions when the injectors go static.

Regarding the starting issues, when the engine doesn't start, does it crank at all or do you get nothing?

[alexandermf]

Josh that makes sense about the maf being wack, my car does go through a couple, what should the voltage be reading when I measure it.

Ill knock the boost down a little too to check the afr levels vs injectors/boost.

When the engine doesn't start I get no crank at all. My ignition feels kinda loose in the steering column but not too too bad. When it doesn't start or crank all the dash lights and everything look to work perfectly and no dimming anywhere. Then we will hook up the cables and sometimes it'll still take a couple times of not cranking/adjusting the cables on thr battery terminals. But once I hear that crank it's all good and starts up fine

[alexandermf]

Also regarding your reply to my issue on the other thread...

My active codes are speed sensor(not plugged in tranny), neutral safety switch, clutch inhibitor switch. Greg did my swap so not sure if I need to do something to clear those for good or not. Tcu is still in there plugged in and all, get the flashing pwr green light at startup but he said that should affect anything negatively. I can start the car without pushing in clutch as well.

Also I've had the speed sensor out before on the tranny end and never had weird issues. Only when it was out by the cluster the car would do wacky things

[alexandermf]

As soon as it warms up this weekend ill address the vss issue and get that working for good, hopefully that'll get rid of any limp/safe mode. And ill get to that maf as well. Maybe ill just swap a friends over as well to see if that helps

[Legacy777]

The MAF sensor issue is not really anything you can fix unless you do something to upgrade the engine management. You can try a different MAF sensor, but if your MAF sensor is working properly another MAF sensor is going to do the same thing. The max voltage is around 5v. I would try turning the boost down and see if that helps your problem.

Regarding the codes, what specific code numbers come up? It does not sound like the wiring was done completely/correctly for the 5spd swap. The only reason I could see to leave the TCU in is to keep the cruise working, however I'm not sure if it would work with those other codes present.

I would recommend looking at my write up. You don't have to install the clutch starter interlock circuit, but you need to make sure pins 11 & 12 of the B15 connector are jumpered (It sounds like they are since you're able to start the car....unless he left the inhibitor switch installed...) If the wiring isn't done right, they could be causing your starting issues.

[alexandermf]

Just pulled them now
32, 33, 51, 52

32 oxygen sensor is new, wasn't there last I checked. We put a new clutch in yesterday and maybe they forgot to plug back in. Ill check on that and work on the vss when it warms up outside

[alexandermf]

Also when I checked the active codes and heard all the sensors and solenoids cycling through the brown atmospheric sensor above the bcs and map was clicking/buzzing louder than normal.

Also turned boost down and still the hesitation with the injectors going static even at 7lbs

[alexandermf]

02 sensor code gone, not pulling up now so just 33, 51 52

[Legacy777]

First thing I'd suggest is getting the speedo cable hooked up. That should get rid of code 33, and you can see then if it gets rid of your hesitation.

For codes 51 & 52 you need to complete the wiring portion of the 5spd swap. Remove the TCU, pull the shift lock computer out, make sure the ECU is pinned properly as a MT car, ensure that the proper pins are connected at the transmission connectors. Here's my write up on the electrical stuff.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swa ... rical.html

[alexandermf]

Couple new finds...

Bought the manual ext for the speed cable yesterday and buying a cable today so hopefully will have vss code/hesitation next day or so!

Also josh... My car has been doing the lets not start randomly more often and now in warmer weather as well. Today I tried to turn and no crank, that's twice in the last day on a warm one at that. Well just as I'm charging up my battery jumper I go again to cycle to key in the ignition a couple times with no luck. On the final try before about to jump I forcibly put my hand to the key and wiggled/jammed while turning to "on" and cranked and came on right away!

This leads me to believe that my car was never dead any of these times and something within the ignition assembly is wearing out. Thoughts/suggestions of what it could be. I've heard of ignitions burning out and wearing down to where cycling the key a couple times works but this is different where I had to kinda push it/jiggle to find the connection or whatever happens on the mechanism internals

[jefferson]

I would replace the ignition switch. I had to do that on my car when it was doing what yours is on the cranking issue.

Jeff

[alexandermf]

Good to grab from junkyard or is it something to order new?

Also just picked up a Speedo cable and extension to install today so hopefully ill have that installed tomorrow!

Josh- since I've wrote this thread my hesitation has gone away maybe 3 times
.. like it won't be there at all and the injectors don't go static as fast. Then it'll come back on q different drive. This makes me wanna try a maf swap if it doesn't go away with the speed cable fix

[jefferson]

I would get a new one from Subaru. You really never know what you are getting from a junkyard or pick and pull, but it would sure be cheaper. I don't remember what mine ran.

Jeff

[alexandermf]

Sounds good, where exactly is this ign switch? A lot to do to replace?

[Legacy777]

You really need to focus on one thing at a time. If you don't, you either won't know what fixed the problem or could be chasing your tail some more.

First things first, get the speedo working and clear all the old codes.

I don't believe your speedo issue is related to the starting issue, but focus on one problem at a time.

Regarding the starting issue, you need to verify that the wiring that was done around the MT swap is good, it can and will affect the car being able to start. I had very similar no cranking issues with the starter interlock relay harness I made. Once I took that out, I never had the problem again. I don't know if it was the wiring or the relay, but whatever it was once I removed the harness I didn't have the problem.

Once you've verified the wiring and got the electrical from the MT swap sorted out, then look at your starting problem. It could be your ignition switch, but it also could be the grounding at the starter, and the starter solenoid contacts.

Replacing the ignition switch requires getting a new key and lock assembly. The bolts that hold it in are designed to not be reused, so I wouldn't recommend getting one used. I would only replace the ignition switch after you've exhaustively eliminated all other issues. You can even put in a push button starter as a temporary trial to rule out the ignition switch as the problem.

[alexandermf]

Josh today I'm going to pull the tcu and make sure pin 20 on the b48 ecu connector is snipped. Once I do that should 51 & 52 codes clear away for good? I just read through your electrical swap info and it looks like that should be it for my swap besides my reverse lights that i haven't wired yet


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[alexandermf]

Well Chris and I have been working on our cars straight for past 3 days and getting a lot done and narrowing the problems. I pulled the tcu and snipped the identifier pin, let's hope that fixes my starting issues!

As for the hesitation I think I've found the culprit! After fixing everything from plugs to coolant temp sensor I put in a friends maf and the hesitation was gone and my afr readings weren't all funky. Now his maf isn't perfect either but when I put my maf back in the hesitation came back and leaning out at idle. Gonna try and located a good maf tomorrow and hopefully the car will be 100%!


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[robertpaige]

Nice, good to know!

[alexandermf]

I'll report back tomorrow after I find a replacement maf, crossing my fingers this will fix my hesitation for good!


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[Legacy777]

Any update on this Alex?

Did everything work ok with the TCU removed?

[alexandermf]

Yes everything has been working fine with tcu removed and pin 20 snipped! I'll report back if the starting issue comes back


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[alexandermf]

A new maf cured the hesitation though


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