May need a new clutch/tranny?

[killajamal]

I have a 93 L sedan with 153k on the clock. The clutch seems 100% toast. I have never done transmission or clutch work. So I may very well need a new tranny. The clutch hardly grabs and it takes forever to pick up speed. I cannot get much past 20mph and it reeks of burnt clutch.
So my question is if I simply need a clutch, should I go ahead and have other things done while it's torn apart? (I don't have the time or space to complete this project on my own as I am a full time student and worker.) If I need a new tranny, what kind of tranny would be an ideal upgrade or simple replacement?
Just looking for someone to bounce ideas off of. Never had a clutch go out on me before.

[mike-tracy]

It sounds like the clutch pressure plate isn't working as normal. Your car should have a cable clutch with two nuts on it to compensate for clutch disc wear and cable stretching.

At the front of the transmission, on the driver side, you should see the clutch cable going to the clutch fork. See if you can tighten them up a bit and see how the car acts.

It could very well be that you need a new clutch kit - they are not too expensive in parts, but the labor is what costs a bit. Instead of getting a new flywheel, see if yours can be turned.

With the engine or transmission pulled (I usually pull the engine since I have a hoist), you should replace the rear main seal, and reseal the oil separator plate using oil-rated RTV (this plate is on the back of the block, under the flywheel, it has 6 large screws on it). If yours is made of plastic, Subaru sells a stamped steel one that seems to be way less prone to leaking (you must buy the updated screws with hex heads, as the old tapered screws will leak). If your plate is the thick aluminum, just reseal/reuse it.

Edit: New stamped steel separator plate with part numbers
11831AA210 x1 separator plate
800406140 x5 hex bolts
800406150 x1 hex bolt with sealant (goes into hole on plate with arrow pointing to it!)
(from http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... 17#p370917)


It's pretty unlikely that the transmission needs replacing, but if you do, a lower mileage junkyard unit should do the trick. You should have a 4.11 final drive transmission, so try to find a matching one off a 1st generation non-turbo legacy so you don't have to do any changes to make it work.

[killajamal]

Mike this is exactly the info I was looking for. I will try making the suggested adjustments tomorrow and give her a whirl. If the issue is still present I will take it in to my guy and have it inspected.
if youre ever down south of kent near Portland, dinner is on me.

[robertpaige]

From my understanding you do not touch the Rear Main unless it is leaking. You have a chance of scoring the inner walls and creating a big problem. The gasket is made of Viton which should last you a long long time without a problem.

[robertpaige]

Btw, SSI (Superior Soobie & Import) on Hwy 99 in Oregon City will do labor for $325 and get you an OEM Exedy Clutch at a great price too.

[mike-tracy]

From my understanding you do not touch the Rear Main unless it is leaking. You have a chance of scoring the inner walls and creating a big problem. The gasket is made of Viton which should last you a long long time without a problem.

That's a good point - though I haven't seen a 1st gen yet that wasn't seeping. I use a seal removal tool (such as http://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-35556.html) and pierce the middle of the seal, and pull it out carefully.

[robertpaige]

That tool is so helpful! There are a couple different styles I have used, seems like each ones works better for a different application, ones for small seals and ones for bigger seals.

Killajamal, you should definitely upgrade to the updated OEM Oil Separator plate, new style is metal rather than plastic and won't crack and leak oil. If your Rear Main isn't weeping oil I would recommend to leave it as is, ultimately it is up to you.

[rallyak]

At the front of the transmission, on the driver side, you should see the clutch cable going to the clutch fork. See if you can tighten them up a bit and see how the car acts.

Tightening the cable will make it worse. When the clutch wears out the cables looses the recommend slack by getting tighter not loose.

[mike-tracy]

At the front of the transmission, on the driver side, you should see the clutch cable going to the clutch fork. See if you can tighten them up a bit and see how the car acts.

Tightening the cable will make it worse. When the clutch wears out the cables looses the recommend slack by getting tighter not loose.

Good catch again. I kind of figured which ever way I said to adjust it, it'd be the opposite lol. I haven't had a cable clutch car since 06, but I do remember having to adjust it more than a little.

[killajamal]

Had a new clutch installed last week. Found a great deal at a shop that did my rear main and a passenger Axel as well at no extra labor charge.
thanks for the input guys!