As my previous topic stated i have some idle problems, and have discovered my pigtail leading into the TPS has cut and exposed wires.
I went to the junkyard and cut two pigtails for the TPS off of N/A cars..But the wires on the pigtails i cut are in different positions then the one on the car.
So obviously i would just match the wires position for position, but i can't help but wonder if this will cause problems as maybe different pins have different voltages or something of that nature.
Here is two pictures of the two harnesses i cut next to the factory one on. Notices the colors of the wires in different positions. So all you weird guys that are good with this electrical stuff please chime in if you have some idea what i should do
Hi,
I haven't messed w/my TPS for awhile, but if all 4 wires are the same gauge on each then there's no issue, so as long as you're matching "wires position for position" you're fine.
But out of curiosity, your Shela is a '93, correct? What year did you get the spares from?
TD
Turbo Subies:
'87 GL-10 Turbo - SOLD
'90 BJ EJ22T/DOHC & 5speed swap - SOLD
'04 FXT, Forged internals, VF39, STI TMIC, Cobb AP- SOLD
'93 Legacy SS - 5-speed, SOLD :-(
'02 WRX -SOLD
'96 BD-turbo'd-SOLD
'98 SF - NA-T
The wiring color on your car is correct. I'm not sure why the other connector wire colors are off. If you can de-pin the little pins in the connector so the colors match, that would be good for anyone (including yourself) that has to do testing/troubleshooting in the future.
repinned the connector i got from the junk yard wasnt that hard now i just gotta splice the new one on. Im still curious what the best way to do it is.
Technically you really shouldn't solder wires together. All the factory connections are crimp connections. Solder can fatigue and crack over time. What I use is the uninsulated crimp connectors and then heat shrink tubing.
what about those butt splices that have the crimp affect and solder in them? I understand your point, and appreciate your input. I just figured solder would be a more long term binding and connectivity? Although I dont know a whole lot about all this electricity wiring stuff.
I spliced on the new pigtail fired the car up ran the same just about maybe even a tiny bit lower idle that i could not figure out.
Also I noticed that the pig tail i spliced on had different type metal wires. The wire harness on the car had obviously copper wire, the new pig tail all the wires were more silver colored. Will this cause a problem???
Also I'm beginning to thing its my alternator after reading a few stories on here of guys getting a new alternator and magically the car runs better maybe i should try that, but my question with that is does it have to be an OEM alternator or just a "new" parts store brand alternator?
I would recommend testing the resistance of the TPS wires from the TPS connector to the ECU. The resistance should be 0 ohms or very close to it. That should tell you whether the wiring and splice is good and going to the correct spots.
Regarding the alternator, others have had issues with the supposedly "new" alternators from parts stores. You can try one, or you could try and find a used one from a junkyard. Have you taken your alternator out to have it tested? What about checking your grounds?
ive had it tested in the past and they said it was still good* by good they said it was putting out the lowest side of the voltage but still with in the spectrum of "good" keep in mind its 21 years old so i can't imagine its feeling all that good anymore.
Ok, well if it was on the edge last summer the colder temps may be degrading the performance further. You could try having it tested again, or pick up a used one at a juinkyard as spare and see if it makes any difference.
Im probably just gonna buy a new one, the local baxters auto parts can order a new hitachi one. Which im fairly certain that what the stock one is anyway.
lucas wrote: probably the IACV if anyting now. I hate that valve
Hi,
Just replace the TOP of the IAC - NOT the whole thing. Plus, since yours is the SS, it's almost impossible to replace the complete IAC w/out removing the turbo - @ least in my experience.
Notes:
I did NOT completely remove my IAC, just unscrewed the two phillips head screws, noted their location - if there's white marks reuse those - and swap parts. While I had the top off, I sprayed brake cleaner down the IAC's air tube while manually turning the valve's shaft back and forth. There is a rubber O-ring which might come loose when removing the top, so note its location. (NOTE: I had bunch of white smoke, like using Seafoam to clean the intake, after restarting. I also had blue smoke for a 30 minute drive as I must have loosened up some accumulated oil or carbon deposits).
that i could not figure out.