oohoo! Turbo finally...wait ill back up a sec....i have a 91 leg sedan. Swapped all for wrx turbo parts. Upgraded fuel pump. And currently running a 1:8 rrfpr as my only means of adding more fuel and running 6psiThe first test day i left it unhooked. Ran great afrs were fairlybideal. Car pulled hard. Then all of a sudden went lean. Light someone flipped a switch. So i hooked up my rrfpr. And it goes pig rich if i floor it. Drive like a nancy all is well. When it goes rich its less than 10. And i get what sounds like spark knock. My question is....why would it run so awesome for a day...then go lean. And im assuming . Although not sure. That my overfueling is causing weird timing adjustments further puttinf a screw into things. Im searching for a 1:6 rrfpr. And also for a way to correct timing. One last thing....i pulled the plugs and replaced with .031 gapped syockers. I noticed the passenger bank were nice tan. The drivers black from overfuel and actually smelled of gas. What may be going on here? Thanks....new to this turbo thing.
My specs:
91 leg na auto
wrx manifold. Up pipe turbo td04. Mbc. Wrx intercooler
wrx water and oil pumps
walbro 255 lph pump. 1:8 fmu
invidia downpipe and full 3 inch exhaust.
2.5 dohc injectors
Have you tried resetting the ECU to see if it goes back to running like it did the first day? The ECU may have learned fuel trims that may be causing issues.
You mention you're running DOHC injectors. Specifically, what injectors are you running? Are they side feed, are you using the original 91 non-turbo fuel rails, what color are they?
hi, yes tried resetting ecu, same. have a 1:4 fmu with adjustable static pressure coming tommorow, yes side fed, dark red injectors off a japan 2.0 non turbo.
well i have the afrs running not so rich, at 7psi, under hard throttle as soon at i hit 11.1afr is starts rattling, any ideas? if i kkeep it in the 11.7.0+ range its happy and pulls hard. i thought rattling knocking only comes from running too leasn?
I need to tame this turbo a bit, whats the best way? I have lengthened the wastegate rod 4 turns, but it just makes boost too fast, gonna rip my car apart. it makes 7 psi right from the get go off idle....
It looks like you have a manual boost controller. Have you tried unhooking it to run wastegate boost? That will be the lowest boost you can achieve on the turbo without replacing the wastegate actuator with a lighter (lower pressure) one. But running N/A with high compression, you're to have lightning fast spool any way you go about it.
93 Touring Wagon (EJ20G 5spd Swap) -- Finally back and running strong as ever!
05 Outback 2.5XT 5spd -- Now the wife can have her SUV and get in on the turbo Legacy goodness at the same time.
James614 wrote:It looks like you have a manual boost controller. Have you tried unhooking it to run wastegate boost? That will be the lowest boost you can achieve on the turbo without replacing the wastegate actuator with a lighter (lower pressure) one. But running N/A with high compression, you're to have lightning fast spool any way you go about it.
I have a turbo off a 94 leg turbo, do you think I can just swap over the actuator and arm? and yes its on wastegate boost now
I would say try for it, since you shouldn't need to remove the turbo to swap actuators. Even if it's not a direct bolt-on, you should be able to find a way to fit it on there. IIRC the VF-11 actuator should allow you to run about 2psi lower than the TD04's.
93 Touring Wagon (EJ20G 5spd Swap) -- Finally back and running strong as ever!
05 Outback 2.5XT 5spd -- Now the wife can have her SUV and get in on the turbo Legacy goodness at the same time.
James614 wrote:I would say try for it, since you shouldn't need to remove the turbo to swap actuators. Even if it's not a direct bolt-on, you should be able to find a way to fit it on there. IIRC the VF-11 actuator should allow you to run about 2psi lower than the TD04's.
Awesome!! Will try. I can use the mbc to turn it up another pound or two after. Looks bolt on. Had to modify the arm that connects to the wastegate lever. I picked up an old xt loyale actuator too to try.
Picked up a holley variable rising rate fpr. I have the plate tuning done. Now for the diaphram bleed tuning. Its basically a main jet. U drill out to fine tune. But i realized it bleeds metered air at boost. And is a vacuum leak when not on boost. I think this needs to be routed back the the air intake after the maf??
well its tuned in pretty good at 6 psi, this thing honks! easily wrx power possibly more. my richest is 12.1 on 92 octane, anything richer and I get ( spark knock/rattle) . seems pretty happy though. any idea what i can put behind the 2.2 for an automatic transmission? I have the stock auto, it has a long delay when cold to go into first or reverse, been that way for 3 years now, but if I can upgrade, I'd sure like to before something happens. I'd go 5 spd, but the wife doesnt get along with a stick, and its a twin baby girl hauler too!
Mine is a single baby girl hauler, and my wife refined her standard skills on my LW flywheel/Stage 1 clutch
But if you really think staying auto is the way you want to go, moving to a 4.44 automatic is probably a good move. The somewhat newer (up to 98? outbacks and I think the Legacy 2.5GT also) 4.44 transmissions supposedly don't burn up as easily as the older ones, plus it'll wake up your car even more. That's a route I considered before I went with my 5spd swap.
93 Touring Wagon (EJ20G 5spd Swap) -- Finally back and running strong as ever!
05 Outback 2.5XT 5spd -- Now the wife can have her SUV and get in on the turbo Legacy goodness at the same time.
James614 wrote:Mine is a single baby girl hauler, and my wife refined her standard skills on my LW flywheel/Stage 1 clutch
But if you really think staying auto is the way you want to go, moving to a 4.44 automatic is probably a good move. The somewhat newer (up to 98? outbacks and I think the Legacy 2.5GT also) 4.44 transmissions supposedly don't burn up as easily as the older ones, plus it'll wake up your car even more. That's a route I considered before I went with my 5spd swap.
awesome, those are plentifull around here! is there some reference material anywhere you can point me to? I cant imagine the electronics are going to be plug and play.
From what I've read, as long as it's a phase 1 (pre 98), it should be plug and play electrically. But it's been a while since I researched it and you should do some searches in the drivetrain forum to verify.
93 Touring Wagon (EJ20G 5spd Swap) -- Finally back and running strong as ever!
05 Outback 2.5XT 5spd -- Now the wife can have her SUV and get in on the turbo Legacy goodness at the same time.
Up to 98 the transmissions are electronically the same. Biggest difference between them would be the ones from a gen 2 legacy will have an electronic vss instead of the cable, which is easily swapped. Easiest way to identify phase 1 from phase 2 would be the bolt holes on the bellhousing, phase 1 has 4 and phase 2 has 8. There are other things you can look for but that's the simplest.
Head gaskets let go it wasnt a matter of it but when. Coolant tank had a black film but didnt smell like exhaust. Sure does now. What is a good headgasket for a boosted na ej22e and ej22e heads?