I did it!
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
I did it!
Well, several weeks on, I've gotten as far into my 90K tune-up as I expect to. I replaced the fuel filter (w/Bosch), pulled some manky looking "Autolite" plugs out, installed NGK "V-Power" plugs, and installed a K&N filtercharger. My 93 5-speed TURBO sedan is running better and maybe even sounding a little better! Thanks for the pointers- they made replacing the plugs and fuel filter doable for a guy who had never even changed his own oil (the local oil&filter change is only $14- no labor charge!).
Now, does anyone have any recommendations for reasonably-priced performance rotors? Mine are in pretty rough shape (thanks, I think, to improperly torqued wheels), and I'd prefer to upgrade rather than replace worn parts when feasable.
Thanks-
marc
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Now, does anyone have any recommendations for reasonably-priced performance rotors? Mine are in pretty rough shape (thanks, I think, to improperly torqued wheels), and I'd prefer to upgrade rather than replace worn parts when feasable.
Thanks-
marc
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I did it!
>>>(the local oil&filter change is only $14- no labor charge!).<<<
let me think...
$4 for a Subaru oil filter -- $4
$1.25 per qt. of Mobil 1, 5 qts -- $6.25
I don't charge myself for labor....
soooooo... $10.25 for 20 minutes worth of work. 30 if i've been drinkin. And
it's fun. =)
J.
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let me think...
$4 for a Subaru oil filter -- $4
$1.25 per qt. of Mobil 1, 5 qts -- $6.25
I don't charge myself for labor....
soooooo... $10.25 for 20 minutes worth of work. 30 if i've been drinkin. And
it's fun. =)
J.
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I did it!
Where in the hell are you getting Mobil 1 for $1.25 a quart!!!?!!! Put a
case of it aside for me , would ya !!! ;^)
-Matt
>$1.25 per qt. of Mobil 1, 5 qts -- $6.25
>I don't charge myself for labor....
>
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case of it aside for me , would ya !!! ;^)
-Matt
>$1.25 per qt. of Mobil 1, 5 qts -- $6.25
>I don't charge myself for labor....
>
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I did it!
YES, inquiring minds would like to know??? Is this just conventional Mobil,
or Synthetic? I know I can get the conventional stuff, which is pretty good
if you ask me, for like 99 cents.
Josh
************************************
Josh Colombo
jcc189@psu.edu <mailto:jcc189@psu.edu>
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: matt scicchitano [mailto:nzwrc1@sunlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 9:11 AM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] I did it!
Where in the hell are you getting Mobil 1 for $1.25 a quart!!!?!!! Put a
case of it aside for me , would ya !!! ;^)
-Matt
>$1.25 per qt. of Mobil 1, 5 qts -- $6.25
>I don't charge myself for labor....
>
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or Synthetic? I know I can get the conventional stuff, which is pretty good
if you ask me, for like 99 cents.
Josh
************************************
Josh Colombo
jcc189@psu.edu <mailto:jcc189@psu.edu>
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: matt scicchitano [mailto:nzwrc1@sunlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 9:11 AM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] I did it!
Where in the hell are you getting Mobil 1 for $1.25 a quart!!!?!!! Put a
case of it aside for me , would ya !!! ;^)
-Matt
>$1.25 per qt. of Mobil 1, 5 qts -- $6.25
>I don't charge myself for labor....
>
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I did it!
Don't get drilled. Get slotted. Everyone I have ever heard of with x drilled rotors have had to replace them earlier than a stock rotor.
-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Basiliere [mailto:mtnboy@softhome.net]
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:35 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] I did it!
Well, several weeks on, I've gotten as far into my 90K tune-up as I expect to. I replaced the fuel filter (w/Bosch), pulled some manky looking "Autolite" plugs out, installed NGK "V-Power" plugs, and installed a K&N filtercharger. My 93 5-speed TURBO sedan is running better and maybe even sounding a little better! Thanks for the pointers- they made replacing the plugs and fuel filter doable for a guy who had never even changed his own oil (the local oil&filter change is only $14- no labor charge!).
Now, does anyone have any recommendations for reasonably-priced performance rotors? Mine are in pretty rough shape (thanks, I think, to improperly torqued wheels), and I'd prefer to upgrade rather than replace worn parts when feasable.
Thanks-
marc
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-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Basiliere [mailto:mtnboy@softhome.net]
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:35 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] I did it!
Well, several weeks on, I've gotten as far into my 90K tune-up as I expect to. I replaced the fuel filter (w/Bosch), pulled some manky looking "Autolite" plugs out, installed NGK "V-Power" plugs, and installed a K&N filtercharger. My 93 5-speed TURBO sedan is running better and maybe even sounding a little better! Thanks for the pointers- they made replacing the plugs and fuel filter doable for a guy who had never even changed his own oil (the local oil&filter change is only $14- no labor charge!).
Now, does anyone have any recommendations for reasonably-priced performance rotors? Mine are in pretty rough shape (thanks, I think, to improperly torqued wheels), and I'd prefer to upgrade rather than replace worn parts when feasable.
Thanks-
marc
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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I did it!
I had the rotors turned and new factory pads replaced about 3500
miles
ago and a few are warped already hadn't thought of torque on the lug
nuts? Seems that a lot of people have different ideas on what rotors
to use the last I heard was that Xdrilled would not warp but didn't
last as long. I could live with this if it is true. One thing I did
hear about was that some dealers of Ford and Jeep turn the rotors on
the car. The wheel is removed and a machine is fastened to the
suspension and to the spindle and a grinding wheel device grinds the
rotor from outer edge to the inner edge on both sides seems to me
that
this would be a good method and might even cost less. Anyone else
heard of this?
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Barrett, Sam" <samb@v...> wrote:
> Don't get drilled. Get slotted. Everyone I have ever heard of with
x
drilled
> rotors have had to replace them earlier than a stock rotor.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marc Basiliere [mailto:mtnboy@s...]
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:35 PM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] I did it!
>
>
> Well, several weeks on, I've gotten as far into my 90K tune-up as I
expect
> to. I replaced the fuel filter (w/Bosch), pulled some manky looking
> "Autolite" plugs out, installed NGK "V-Power" plugs, and installed
a
K&N
> filtercharger. My 93 5-speed TURBO sedan is running better and
maybe even
> sounding a little better! Thanks for the pointers- they made
replacing the
> plugs and fuel filter doable for a guy who had never even changed
his own
> oil (the local oil&filter change is only $14- no labor charge!).
>
> Now, does anyone have any recommendations for reasonably-priced
performance
> rotors? Mine are in pretty rough shape (thanks, I think, to
improperly
> torqued wheels), and I'd prefer to upgrade rather than replace worn
parts
> when feasable.
>
> Thanks-
> marc
>
>
>
>
> eGroups Sponsor
> <http://click.egroups.com/1/9666/2/_/_/_/972358780/>
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>
>
<http://adimg.egroups.com/img/9666/2/_/_ ... Sports468x
602E.g
> if>
>
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miles
ago and a few are warped already hadn't thought of torque on the lug
nuts? Seems that a lot of people have different ideas on what rotors
to use the last I heard was that Xdrilled would not warp but didn't
last as long. I could live with this if it is true. One thing I did
hear about was that some dealers of Ford and Jeep turn the rotors on
the car. The wheel is removed and a machine is fastened to the
suspension and to the spindle and a grinding wheel device grinds the
rotor from outer edge to the inner edge on both sides seems to me
that
this would be a good method and might even cost less. Anyone else
heard of this?
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Barrett, Sam" <samb@v...> wrote:
> Don't get drilled. Get slotted. Everyone I have ever heard of with
x
drilled
> rotors have had to replace them earlier than a stock rotor.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marc Basiliere [mailto:mtnboy@s...]
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:35 PM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] I did it!
>
>
> Well, several weeks on, I've gotten as far into my 90K tune-up as I
expect
> to. I replaced the fuel filter (w/Bosch), pulled some manky looking
> "Autolite" plugs out, installed NGK "V-Power" plugs, and installed
a
K&N
> filtercharger. My 93 5-speed TURBO sedan is running better and
maybe even
> sounding a little better! Thanks for the pointers- they made
replacing the
> plugs and fuel filter doable for a guy who had never even changed
his own
> oil (the local oil&filter change is only $14- no labor charge!).
>
> Now, does anyone have any recommendations for reasonably-priced
performance
> rotors? Mine are in pretty rough shape (thanks, I think, to
improperly
> torqued wheels), and I'd prefer to upgrade rather than replace worn
parts
> when feasable.
>
> Thanks-
> marc
>
>
>
>
> eGroups Sponsor
> <http://click.egroups.com/1/9666/2/_/_/_/972358780/>
>
>
>
<http://adimg.egroups.com/img/9666/2/_/_ ... Sports468x
602E.g
> if>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
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I did it!
Sounds ghetto to me. I mean think about it. If the rotors warp and a machine just grinds the outer surfact flat, that doesn't set them straight symetrically. It just leaves you with a 2 flat surfaces. I'll have to look at my rotors when I get home to confirm my theory. If your rotors are just solid discs it might work just fine. But if your rotors have spacers of any kind between the surfaces I know for a fact that method wouldn't work. Interesting. I'll look into this when I get home.
-Sambo
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Croxford [mailto:acroxford@hypermall.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 9:48 AM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: I did it!
I had the rotors turned and new factory pads replaced about 3500
miles
ago and a few are warped already hadn't thought of torque on the lug
nuts? Seems that a lot of people have different ideas on what rotors
to use the last I heard was that Xdrilled would not warp but didn't
last as long. I could live with this if it is true. One thing I did
hear about was that some dealers of Ford and Jeep turn the rotors on
the car. The wheel is removed and a machine is fastened to the
suspension and to the spindle and a grinding wheel device grinds the
rotor from outer edge to the inner edge on both sides seems to me
that
this would be a good method and might even cost less. Anyone else
heard of this?
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Barrett, Sam" <samb@v...> wrote:
> Don't get drilled. Get slotted. Everyone I have ever heard of with
x
drilled
> rotors have had to replace them earlier than a stock rotor.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marc Basiliere [mailto:mtnboy@s...]
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:35 PM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] I did it!
>
>
> Well, several weeks on, I've gotten as far into my 90K tune-up as I
expect
> to. I replaced the fuel filter (w/Bosch), pulled some manky looking
> "Autolite" plugs out, installed NGK "V-Power" plugs, and installed
a
K&N
> filtercharger. My 93 5-speed TURBO sedan is running better and
maybe even
> sounding a little better! Thanks for the pointers- they made
replacing the
> plugs and fuel filter doable for a guy who had never even changed
his own
> oil (the local oil&filter change is only $14- no labor charge!).
>
> Now, does anyone have any recommendations for reasonably-priced
performance
> rotors? Mine are in pretty rough shape (thanks, I think, to
improperly
> torqued wheels), and I'd prefer to upgrade rather than replace worn
parts
> when feasable.
>
> Thanks-
> marc
>
>
>
>
> eGroups Sponsor
> < http://click.egroups.com/1/9666/2/_/_/_/972358780/>
>
>
>
< http://adimg.egroups.com/img/9666/2/_/_ ... Sports468x
602E.g
> if>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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-Sambo
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Croxford [mailto:acroxford@hypermall.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 9:48 AM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: I did it!
I had the rotors turned and new factory pads replaced about 3500
miles
ago and a few are warped already hadn't thought of torque on the lug
nuts? Seems that a lot of people have different ideas on what rotors
to use the last I heard was that Xdrilled would not warp but didn't
last as long. I could live with this if it is true. One thing I did
hear about was that some dealers of Ford and Jeep turn the rotors on
the car. The wheel is removed and a machine is fastened to the
suspension and to the spindle and a grinding wheel device grinds the
rotor from outer edge to the inner edge on both sides seems to me
that
this would be a good method and might even cost less. Anyone else
heard of this?
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Barrett, Sam" <samb@v...> wrote:
> Don't get drilled. Get slotted. Everyone I have ever heard of with
x
drilled
> rotors have had to replace them earlier than a stock rotor.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marc Basiliere [mailto:mtnboy@s...]
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:35 PM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] I did it!
>
>
> Well, several weeks on, I've gotten as far into my 90K tune-up as I
expect
> to. I replaced the fuel filter (w/Bosch), pulled some manky looking
> "Autolite" plugs out, installed NGK "V-Power" plugs, and installed
a
K&N
> filtercharger. My 93 5-speed TURBO sedan is running better and
maybe even
> sounding a little better! Thanks for the pointers- they made
replacing the
> plugs and fuel filter doable for a guy who had never even changed
his own
> oil (the local oil&filter change is only $14- no labor charge!).
>
> Now, does anyone have any recommendations for reasonably-priced
performance
> rotors? Mine are in pretty rough shape (thanks, I think, to
improperly
> torqued wheels), and I'd prefer to upgrade rather than replace worn
parts
> when feasable.
>
> Thanks-
> marc
>
>
>
>
> eGroups Sponsor
> < http://click.egroups.com/1/9666/2/_/_/_/972358780/>
>
>
>
< http://adimg.egroups.com/img/9666/2/_/_ ... Sports468x
602E.g
> if>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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I did it!
X-drilled WILL warp....I've done IT. If you want after market, get
slotted..
************************************
Josh Colombo
jcc189@psu.edu <mailto:jcc189@psu.edu>
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Croxford [mailto:acroxford@hypermall.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 12:48 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: I did it!
I had the rotors turned and new factory pads replaced about 3500
miles
ago and a few are warped already hadn't thought of torque on the lug
nuts? Seems that a lot of people have different ideas on what rotors
to use the last I heard was that Xdrilled would not warp but didn't
last as long. I could live with this if it is true. One thing I did
hear about was that some dealers of Ford and Jeep turn the rotors on
the car. The wheel is removed and a machine is fastened to the
suspension and to the spindle and a grinding wheel device grinds the
rotor from outer edge to the inner edge on both sides seems to me
that
this would be a good method and might even cost less. Anyone else
heard of this?
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Barrett, Sam" <samb@v...> wrote:
> Don't get drilled. Get slotted. Everyone I have ever heard of with
x
drilled
> rotors have had to replace them earlier than a stock rotor.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marc Basiliere [mailto:mtnboy@s...]
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:35 PM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] I did it!
>
>
> Well, several weeks on, I've gotten as far into my 90K tune-up as I
expect
> to. I replaced the fuel filter (w/Bosch), pulled some manky looking
> "Autolite" plugs out, installed NGK "V-Power" plugs, and installed
a
K&N
> filtercharger. My 93 5-speed TURBO sedan is running better and
maybe even
> sounding a little better! Thanks for the pointers- they made
replacing the
> plugs and fuel filter doable for a guy who had never even changed
his own
> oil (the local oil&filter change is only $14- no labor charge!).
>
> Now, does anyone have any recommendations for reasonably-priced
performance
> rotors? Mine are in pretty rough shape (thanks, I think, to
improperly
> torqued wheels), and I'd prefer to upgrade rather than replace worn
parts
> when feasable.
>
> Thanks-
> marc
>
>
>
>
> eGroups Sponsor
> <http://click.egroups.com/1/9666/2/_/_/_/972358780/>
>
>
>
<http://adimg.egroups.com/img/9666/2/_/_ ... Sports468x
602E.g
> if>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
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slotted..
************************************
Josh Colombo
jcc189@psu.edu <mailto:jcc189@psu.edu>
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Croxford [mailto:acroxford@hypermall.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 12:48 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: I did it!
I had the rotors turned and new factory pads replaced about 3500
miles
ago and a few are warped already hadn't thought of torque on the lug
nuts? Seems that a lot of people have different ideas on what rotors
to use the last I heard was that Xdrilled would not warp but didn't
last as long. I could live with this if it is true. One thing I did
hear about was that some dealers of Ford and Jeep turn the rotors on
the car. The wheel is removed and a machine is fastened to the
suspension and to the spindle and a grinding wheel device grinds the
rotor from outer edge to the inner edge on both sides seems to me
that
this would be a good method and might even cost less. Anyone else
heard of this?
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Barrett, Sam" <samb@v...> wrote:
> Don't get drilled. Get slotted. Everyone I have ever heard of with
x
drilled
> rotors have had to replace them earlier than a stock rotor.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marc Basiliere [mailto:mtnboy@s...]
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:35 PM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] I did it!
>
>
> Well, several weeks on, I've gotten as far into my 90K tune-up as I
expect
> to. I replaced the fuel filter (w/Bosch), pulled some manky looking
> "Autolite" plugs out, installed NGK "V-Power" plugs, and installed
a
K&N
> filtercharger. My 93 5-speed TURBO sedan is running better and
maybe even
> sounding a little better! Thanks for the pointers- they made
replacing the
> plugs and fuel filter doable for a guy who had never even changed
his own
> oil (the local oil&filter change is only $14- no labor charge!).
>
> Now, does anyone have any recommendations for reasonably-priced
performance
> rotors? Mine are in pretty rough shape (thanks, I think, to
improperly
> torqued wheels), and I'd prefer to upgrade rather than replace worn
parts
> when feasable.
>
> Thanks-
> marc
>
>
>
>
> eGroups Sponsor
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I did it!
What they were talking about was a method that would use the spindle
on the car rather than a spindle on the machine as a reference point
when grinding to true the rotors this would make a more accurate
surface on both sides. I can see where this could be true but I am
also wondering if it is such a good idea why aren't more makes or
dealers be doing it?
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Barrett, Sam" <samb@v...> wrote:
> Sounds ghetto to me. I mean think about it. If the rotors warp and
a
machine
> just grinds the outer surfact flat, that doesn't set them straight
> symetrically. It just leaves you with a 2 flat surfaces. I'll have
to look
> at my rotors when I get home to confirm my theory. If your rotors
are just
> solid discs it might work just fine. But if your rotors have
spacers
of any
> kind between the surfaces I know for a fact that method wouldn't
work.
> Interesting. I'll look into this when I get home.
>
> -Sambo
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Croxford [mailto:acroxford@h...]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 9:48 AM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: I did it!
>
>
> I had the rotors turned and new factory pads replaced about 3500
> miles
> ago and a few are warped already hadn't thought of torque on the
lug
> nuts? Seems that a lot of people have different ideas on what
rotors
> to use the last I heard was that Xdrilled would not warp but didn't
> last as long. I could live with this if it is true. One thing I did
> hear about was that some dealers of Ford and Jeep turn the rotors
on
> the car. The wheel is removed and a machine is fastened to the
> suspension and to the spindle and a grinding wheel device grinds
the
> rotor from outer edge to the inner edge on both sides seems to me
> that
> this would be a good method and might even cost less. Anyone else
> heard of this?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Barrett, Sam" <samb@v...>
wrote:
> > Don't get drilled. Get slotted. Everyone I have ever heard of with
> x
> drilled
> > rotors have had to replace them earlier than a stock rotor.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Marc Basiliere [mailto:mtnboy@s...]
> > Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:35 PM
> > To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> > Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] I did it!
> >
> >
> > Well, several weeks on, I've gotten as far into my 90K tune-up as
I
> expect
> > to. I replaced the fuel filter (w/Bosch), pulled some manky
looking
> > "Autolite" plugs out, installed NGK "V-Power" plugs, and installed
> a
> K&N
> > filtercharger. My 93 5-speed TURBO sedan is running better and
> maybe even
> > sounding a little better! Thanks for the pointers- they made
> replacing the
> > plugs and fuel filter doable for a guy who had never even changed
> his own
> > oil (the local oil&filter change is only $14- no labor charge!).
> >
> > Now, does anyone have any recommendations for reasonably-priced
> performance
> > rotors? Mine are in pretty rough shape (thanks, I think, to
> improperly
> > torqued wheels), and I'd prefer to upgrade rather than replace
worn
> parts
> > when feasable.
> >
> > Thanks-
> > marc
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > eGroups Sponsor
> > < http://click.egroups.com/1/9666/2/_/_/_/972358780/
> <http://click.egroups.com/1/9666/2/_/_/_/972358780/> >
> >
> >
> >
> <
http://adimg.egroups.com/img/9666/2/_/_ ... Sports468x
>
<http://adimg.egroups.com/img/9666/2/_/_ ... Sports468x
>
> 602E.g
> > if>
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
> eGroups Sponsor
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>
>
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> f>
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on the car rather than a spindle on the machine as a reference point
when grinding to true the rotors this would make a more accurate
surface on both sides. I can see where this could be true but I am
also wondering if it is such a good idea why aren't more makes or
dealers be doing it?
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Barrett, Sam" <samb@v...> wrote:
> Sounds ghetto to me. I mean think about it. If the rotors warp and
a
machine
> just grinds the outer surfact flat, that doesn't set them straight
> symetrically. It just leaves you with a 2 flat surfaces. I'll have
to look
> at my rotors when I get home to confirm my theory. If your rotors
are just
> solid discs it might work just fine. But if your rotors have
spacers
of any
> kind between the surfaces I know for a fact that method wouldn't
work.
> Interesting. I'll look into this when I get home.
>
> -Sambo
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Croxford [mailto:acroxford@h...]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 9:48 AM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: I did it!
>
>
> I had the rotors turned and new factory pads replaced about 3500
> miles
> ago and a few are warped already hadn't thought of torque on the
lug
> nuts? Seems that a lot of people have different ideas on what
rotors
> to use the last I heard was that Xdrilled would not warp but didn't
> last as long. I could live with this if it is true. One thing I did
> hear about was that some dealers of Ford and Jeep turn the rotors
on
> the car. The wheel is removed and a machine is fastened to the
> suspension and to the spindle and a grinding wheel device grinds
the
> rotor from outer edge to the inner edge on both sides seems to me
> that
> this would be a good method and might even cost less. Anyone else
> heard of this?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Barrett, Sam" <samb@v...>
wrote:
> > Don't get drilled. Get slotted. Everyone I have ever heard of with
> x
> drilled
> > rotors have had to replace them earlier than a stock rotor.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Marc Basiliere [mailto:mtnboy@s...]
> > Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:35 PM
> > To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> > Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] I did it!
> >
> >
> > Well, several weeks on, I've gotten as far into my 90K tune-up as
I
> expect
> > to. I replaced the fuel filter (w/Bosch), pulled some manky
looking
> > "Autolite" plugs out, installed NGK "V-Power" plugs, and installed
> a
> K&N
> > filtercharger. My 93 5-speed TURBO sedan is running better and
> maybe even
> > sounding a little better! Thanks for the pointers- they made
> replacing the
> > plugs and fuel filter doable for a guy who had never even changed
> his own
> > oil (the local oil&filter change is only $14- no labor charge!).
> >
> > Now, does anyone have any recommendations for reasonably-priced
> performance
> > rotors? Mine are in pretty rough shape (thanks, I think, to
> improperly
> > torqued wheels), and I'd prefer to upgrade rather than replace
worn
> parts
> > when feasable.
> >
> > Thanks-
> > marc
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > eGroups Sponsor
> > < http://click.egroups.com/1/9666/2/_/_/_/972358780/
> <http://click.egroups.com/1/9666/2/_/_/_/972358780/> >
> >
> >
> >
> <
http://adimg.egroups.com/img/9666/2/_/_ ... Sports468x
>
<http://adimg.egroups.com/img/9666/2/_/_ ... Sports468x
>
> 602E.g
> > if>
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
> eGroups Sponsor
> <http://click.egroups.com/1/9640/2/_/_/_/972406316/>
>
>
>
<http://adimg.egroups.com/img/9640/2/_/_ ... ealth468x6
02F.gi
> f>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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I did it!
Yes, facing the rotors in place using the cars own power to turn the
rotors, is a common procedure... particularly for FWD vehicles,
possibly some 4WD vehicles... and would probably work on a Sub AWD...
I think!
John Gillon
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Alan Croxford" <acroxford@h...>
wrote:
> I had the rotors turned and new factory pads replaced about 3500
> miles
> ago and a few are warped already hadn't thought of torque on the
lug
> nuts? Seems that a lot of people have different ideas on what
rotors
> to use the last I heard was that Xdrilled would not warp but didn't
> last as long. I could live with this if it is true. One thing I did
> hear about was that some dealers of Ford and Jeep turn the rotors
on
> the car. The wheel is removed and a machine is fastened to the
> suspension and to the spindle and a grinding wheel device grinds
the
> rotor from outer edge to the inner edge on both sides seems to me
> that
> this would be a good method and might even cost less. Anyone else
> heard of this?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Barrett, Sam" <samb@v...>
wrote:
> > Don't get drilled. Get slotted. Everyone I have ever heard of with
> x
> drilled
> > rotors have had to replace them earlier than a stock rotor.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Marc Basiliere [mailto:mtnboy@s...]
> > Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:35 PM
> > To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> > Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] I did it!
> >
> >
> > Well, several weeks on, I've gotten as far into my 90K tune-up as
I
> expect
> > to. I replaced the fuel filter (w/Bosch), pulled some manky
looking
> > "Autolite" plugs out, installed NGK "V-Power" plugs, and installed
> a
> K&N
> > filtercharger. My 93 5-speed TURBO sedan is running better and
> maybe even
> > sounding a little better! Thanks for the pointers- they made
> replacing the
> > plugs and fuel filter doable for a guy who had never even changed
> his own
> > oil (the local oil&filter change is only $14- no labor charge!).
> >
> > Now, does anyone have any recommendations for reasonably-priced
> performance
> > rotors? Mine are in pretty rough shape (thanks, I think, to
> improperly
> > torqued wheels), and I'd prefer to upgrade rather than replace
worn
> parts
> > when feasable.
> >
> > Thanks-
> > marc
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > eGroups Sponsor
> > <http://click.egroups.com/1/9666/2/_/_/_/972358780/>
> >
> >
> >
>
<http://adimg.egroups.com/img/9666/2/_/_ ... Sports468x
> 602E.g
> > if>
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
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rotors, is a common procedure... particularly for FWD vehicles,
possibly some 4WD vehicles... and would probably work on a Sub AWD...
I think!
John Gillon
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Alan Croxford" <acroxford@h...>
wrote:
> I had the rotors turned and new factory pads replaced about 3500
> miles
> ago and a few are warped already hadn't thought of torque on the
lug
> nuts? Seems that a lot of people have different ideas on what
rotors
> to use the last I heard was that Xdrilled would not warp but didn't
> last as long. I could live with this if it is true. One thing I did
> hear about was that some dealers of Ford and Jeep turn the rotors
on
> the car. The wheel is removed and a machine is fastened to the
> suspension and to the spindle and a grinding wheel device grinds
the
> rotor from outer edge to the inner edge on both sides seems to me
> that
> this would be a good method and might even cost less. Anyone else
> heard of this?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Barrett, Sam" <samb@v...>
wrote:
> > Don't get drilled. Get slotted. Everyone I have ever heard of with
> x
> drilled
> > rotors have had to replace them earlier than a stock rotor.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Marc Basiliere [mailto:mtnboy@s...]
> > Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:35 PM
> > To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> > Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] I did it!
> >
> >
> > Well, several weeks on, I've gotten as far into my 90K tune-up as
I
> expect
> > to. I replaced the fuel filter (w/Bosch), pulled some manky
looking
> > "Autolite" plugs out, installed NGK "V-Power" plugs, and installed
> a
> K&N
> > filtercharger. My 93 5-speed TURBO sedan is running better and
> maybe even
> > sounding a little better! Thanks for the pointers- they made
> replacing the
> > plugs and fuel filter doable for a guy who had never even changed
> his own
> > oil (the local oil&filter change is only $14- no labor charge!).
> >
> > Now, does anyone have any recommendations for reasonably-priced
> performance
> > rotors? Mine are in pretty rough shape (thanks, I think, to
> improperly
> > torqued wheels), and I'd prefer to upgrade rather than replace
worn
> parts
> > when feasable.
> >
> > Thanks-
> > marc
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > eGroups Sponsor
> > <http://click.egroups.com/1/9666/2/_/_/_/972358780/>
> >
> >
> >
>
<http://adimg.egroups.com/img/9666/2/_/_ ... Sports468x
> 602E.g
> > if>
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
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