TPS issue?

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BAC5.2
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TPS issue?

Post by BAC5.2 »

Hmm, I was thinking about this today.

Could all of my problems be because of a bad TPS?

My car doesn't idle correctly, and it's either idling or at 2k, there is no real inbetween when it comes to throttle movement.

How can I test the Throttle position sensor?

If the TPS IS bad, would it throw a code? I find it incredibly hard to believe that my old IAC and the brand new one would be bad. The IAC should last the life of the car, or at least 1/2 the life. The odds that I got 2 bad ones in a row, is unlikely.
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mTk
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Post by mTk »

Test the voltages. The procedure is in the Haynes, or someone might have a fsm scan.

MK
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Post by Legacy777 »

Josh

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throttle not closing ?

Post by professor »

yes test the voltages but also look for the possibility that the throttle itself is not returning to closed position. When its doing the 2k bit, try to manually close the throttle further. If that makes a change, the throttle body may be gummed up, or the cable or pedal assembly is farked. See if pulling up on the gas pedal slows the idle. I once traced all the electronics in a car only to find the carpet was binding up the pedal
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Post by BAC5.2 »

Yea, what's weird is the erratic idle, it's never constant. Sometimes 1k, sometimes 2k, sometimes 1250.

I throw an IAC code, but that's weird.

Sometimes the car will "hang up" at 2250 or so and just hold there until I tap the gas again. It's really really weird.

Thanks Josh!
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[quote="scottzg"]...I'm not a fan of the vagina...[/quote][quote="evolutionmovement"]This will all go much easier if people stop doubting me.[/quote]
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Post by Bosco »

TRY IT! :D
It can be super cheap and easy to swap out the whole throttle body for another, and see what happens.
It worked beautifully for me when I was having my Idle Switch code going off.
I skipped the TPS testing procedure and just did that, cuz I had a spare TB right there, and did not have a proper "thickness guage" anywhere.

My symptoms were a little bit different though:
Mostly just Very erratic RPMs during driving... a couple times it acted up while idling too... stalled once. Sometimes it ran perfect, but usually only for a few miles at a time.

Anyway... It was SO flippin' easy!
I pulled the TB off my spare N/A motor. Stuck it on the SS, cleared the codes... presto.. no more problems. It took all of 30 minutes.

Thanks AGAIN to all who helped me with that!!!!

Ignoring the invariably invaluable insight of Vrg3, I did not replace the TB gasket, because the one from my donor engine looked almost brand new, and popped off quite cleanly.
It's certainly worth a try... Junkyard TBs can't be too awful expensive...
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Post by vrg3 »

I second Bosco's suggestion. Just go to Crazy Ray's and grab a complete throttle body and TPS off a BC/BF, and get a new gasket from Stealmans or something.
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Post by BAC5.2 »

Hmm, Maybe I'll hit up Crazy Rays tomorrow...
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Post by vrg3 »

Yes! Do that! The potential rewards are enormous. :)
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Post by BAC5.2 »

How much do you think a throttle body would run me?
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Post by legacy92ej22t »

Did you have the faulty IAC replaced yet?

It would be killer if a new TB fixed your woe's Phil. :)
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Post by mTk »

It would be infinitely cheaper to jsut check the function of the current tb sensor and adjust if needed. This is assuming you have a voltmeter and 5 minutes of time.

MK
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Post by vrg3 »

Phil - It doesn't look like it's on their price list, so it'd be up to their discretion. In my experience they're pretty generous on weekdays, so I would expect you'd pay around $15 or $20 maybe.

MK - Yes, it would be infinitely cheaper to test all the stuff, but you can't test everything... like if his throttle body is actually letting too much air through (like if maybe the sealant around the throttle plate is gone?).
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